Millarville Polocrosse

If you have ever wondered what Polocrosse is all about this story is for you.

admin — Sat, 26 Apr 2008 18:39:51 +0000

The game certainly is competitive but anyone who loves horses and some good-natured fun with other horse people will enjoy the game just as much as the high goal scorers. The sport was developed in Australia in the 1930’s. It started with playful exercises, which were part of a training program for young or beginning riders. It was a fun way to develop horsemanship and training techniques while preparing young people for traditional events such as dressage, hunting, show jumping or polo. You can see it on the Polocrosse field all the time, looks of concentration change to big grins as soon as someone throws in a bouncing ball. People can go from being a little bit nervous to hooting and laughing as they chase after a little ball.

It wasn’t long before the game took off as a separate sport and is now played by thousands of people all over Australia. Several local clubs fielding 2 or 3 teams each gather for weekend tournaments called carnivals. Whole families camp out at the sports grounds and games include every level of play and every combination of players from mixed family games to high goal men’s or women’s. Games start early and continue into the afternoon with potluck barbecue and campfire socializing rounding out the days.

The game can be played with almost any breed of light horse. For beginners the best idea is to bring a horse that you are comfortable with. With a little practice he’ll be turning and following the play with the rest of them. If you’re unsure about how to get started there are lots of club members who are happy to help out. The season begins with several practice sessions. Horses need to be conditioned after a winter lay off and these times are used to renew old skills with drills and exercises and getting few new players started. If you are a pretty solid rider and your horse is already pretty handy you will pick up the game a little quicker. If you’re a newer rider it might take a little longer. The main thing is it doesn’t matter who you are, we all get better the more we play. Everybody has the same goals, to increase their own skills and make better horses, and above all have some fun doing it.

Certain tack is used for safety reasons. Saddle horns can get in the way or worse when you bend over to pick up the ball. It’s OK to try out the game in a western saddle but you will probably want to move to something without a horn once you get going. In the game we get in pretty close to each other and long shanks on a bit can get caught in another horses headstall or even just hooked over their reins. To avoid wrecks only bits without shanks are used. English or short spurs without sharp rowels work best to avoid over cueing or even hurting your horse. Heeled boots for safety either English or Western are always worn on the field. Remember that Polocrosse tack is chosen for practicality over style, the rule being if it works well and is safe, use it. Players can be found playing Polocrosse one day and cattle penning or eventing the next. The resulting look is somewhat eclectic. You can borrow a racket and ball until you get started or purchase a set from the club for around a hundred dollars. Optional items are Polo wraps or sports boots and it’s best to have your horse shod for better grip on the grass playing field.

The field is divided into 3 parts, center field and a 30 yard end zone at either end. A game is played with 3 players on each team numbered 1, 2 & 3. Each player carries a racket made with a bamboo cane handle about 42 inches long. A net is suspended from a 6 inch round head at the end of the cane. The racket is used to pick up, carry and pass the sponge rubber ball. Both the ball and the racket are fairly lightweight. It takes a little bit of practice to learn how to handle them well but it is not as hard as it looks. Most people learn how to pick up and pass in 1 or 2 sessions.

Only one player (the number 1) is allowed to enter the opposing end zone. He is opposed by only one (the number 3) player from the other team. The other 2 players from both teams are restricted to center field (the number 2s). The play starts with a line up in center field facing the referee who throws the ball into play. As play continues each side struggles to gain possession of the ball in center field. As play advances the team who gains control of the ball passes it to their number one who enters the opposing end zone and tries to throw the ball through the goal. If the opposing number 3 player cannot stop the shot and a goal is scored all players return to the center line for a new throw in. If the defending number 3 gains control of the ball in his own end zone he carries it out to center field and with the help of his number 2 and tries to get the ball to his number 1 who then carries the ball to the opposing end zone tries to score etc. There are a few more rules to the game but the above pretty much covers all you need to know to get started.

It may seem like this is a difficult game to play but it’s not too hard to catch on to the basics. Once you start it is a lot of fun and if you play regularly your game will improve quickly. Most players take 1 to 2 sessions to learn to pick up and pass the ball. Depending on their horse they can be getting quite a bit done in another 2 or 3 sessions.

As I mentioned earlier some members have a background of competitive horse sports in English and Western disciplines. Others enjoy trail riding or mountain camping with family and friends. What we all have in common is a love of horses and appreciation of a good time. Some members have children in pony club or just learning to ride with the family. There are usually a few kids around to either ride or just play with each other or they can be seen cooling out a parents horse after the game. The atmosphere is informal and friendly. Getting together after the game to enjoy a visit is a must.

We have yet to see any Kings playing at our club but a few satisfied players after a hard game have been heard to remark that they are having an uncommonly good time.

CONDITIONING YOUR HORSE

admin — Tue, 22 Apr 2008 14:37:09 +0000

Laura Humphreys - Updated 2005
Everyone wants their horse to perform at his best. Polocrosse is a team sport in every sense of
the word…you already know that it takes work and commitment to learn the skills of the game; it
also takes work and commitment to get your horse in shape for the job he has to do. Your horse
is expected to be an athlete and needs to be conditioned as one to help withstand the stresses of
the sport.
The less fit your horse is, the greater the risk is for serious injuries. Shortcuts may be tempting
and may seem to work, but eventually they will put your horse at risk. Time is a factor if he gets
injured, it is time lost to healing an injury that you may have caused.
This fitness program is a thorough way to condition a horse that has not worked for months. It
tries to encompass the main concepts of conditioning. If you have a horse that has been ridden
somewhat consistently before you are getting ready for polocrosse, you can find where your
horse might fit in. A word of caution: beware the pitfall of doing too much too soon. Better
preparation equals better fitness. The aim of a conditioning program should be to increase the
length of exercise before fatigue sets in, which reduces the risk of injury. To understand how
fatigue and injury are related, consider some injuries.
Tendons attach muscles to bones. When a horse is pushed beyond his physical limits (either
conformational or fitness) the tired muscle contacts and relaxes less effectively, causing muscular
incoordination. The forces put on the tendon can become too sudden, too extreme or uneven,
causing the fibers to tear. An example is a ‘bowed tendon’. Healing time takes about a year or
more and the healed tendon is not as strong as the normal tendon, so careful conditioning is
advised.
Ligaments attach bones together and are less elastic than tendons. Ruptures are severe; sprains
may only cause slight lameness even thought there is damage. Once ligament fibers are torn
away from the bone, scar tissue forms and the attachment to the bone is weaker. Lots of time is
needed to heal.
Like humans, re-injury can happen easily if work is done too soon. It is important to remember
that horses become sound long before the damaged tissue can hold up to the demands of normal
work. The things you incorporate into a fitness routine have the power to lengthen or shorten your
horse’s career and usefulness.
Many injuries can be prevented by a thoughtful conditioning program. There’s a lot that goes on
in your horse’s muscles as a response to conditioning:
1) Conditioning affects the metabolism in muscle fibers by influencing the
amount of oxygen they can use.
2) The less oxygen available means that the muscles quickly use up the
nutrient energy source (glycogen) stored in them.
3) When there is no energy source in the muscles, they cannot contract
and work. It may take 48 to 72 hours to restore the glycogen once it
has been used up.
4) Conditioning can change the ability of the muscles to create more
glycogen and allow the muscles to work longer before tiring.
Starting the Fitness Program
A progressive program of conditioning produces the most consistent results. Periods of recovery
interspersed with work will allow your horse to build stamina. Use walking or trotting as the
recovery phase, depending on the horse’s present state of fitness. Equally important in building
endurance, strength and lung power is a careful warm up before and warm down after exercise.
Horses don’t have great circulation in their legs. It takes minutes for the blood to move through
the legs and muscles and this is the reason you want to allow him to move into exercise slowly.
Walking first, then trotting for straight stretches provides the best warm up. (Circles, flexing and
tight turns tax muscles and leg structures too much for the warm up phase.)
A warm down is extremely important because it allows the built up lactic acid to disperse out of
the muscles. Mild exercise accomplishes this. Trotting and then walking your horse until he cools
down works well as a warm down. Stopping abruptly and letting him stand is the worst thing to
do, because the lactic acid won’t be flushed out by a moving blood supply. Excess lactic acid
causes soreness in muscles.
Aerobic Conditioning First
Beginning fitness works on aerobic conditioning (the oxygen carrying capacity of the
cardiovascular system) to build and strengthen the legs (think tendons!) and to begin stamina.
This is when it’s helpful to use progressive building blocks to increase fitness. A horse preparing
for the season of play needs to first increase the strength and elasticity of his leg structures to
build the foundation of his conditioning.
Walking, Walking, Walking…
If your horse has been inactive for months, always start by walking for two weeks. That translates
to about 14 rides, not a just few rides per week for the two weeks. Remember, bones and
tendons respond to work slower than muscles do. They need the work, even if you find it boring.
For an unfit horse, start at 20 minutes per session and build to 30 minutes. As he gets fit, he’ll
cover more ground in the 30 minutes. This is what you want. If your horse lives on a large tract of
land where he walks a lot all day, you won’t need to walk as much as suggested here.
Work Begins
After the two weeks, you can:
–Add trotting sessions after warming up with walking for a ‘rest’ period.
–Lengthen the trotting distances to equal the walking distances for a total
of 3 miles or 30 to 40 minutes.
–Increase trotting, with walking as a warm up and warm down; total time
of workout being 40 to 50 minutes.
This type of aerobic conditioning is called Long Slow Distance (LSD) work and it strengthens the
frame of the horse with steady paces and increasing distances.
Work Builds
Increasing the trotting distances sets the horse up for the harder work. Increase it in miles (or use
a block of time) and let his endurance begin to develop. You will feel it get easier for him. The
fitter he gets, the faster he can complete the distance at a workman-like pace.
At 3 or 4 weeks begin:
–½ mile walking warm up
– 2 or 3 mile trot with no rest
– ½ mile warm down
– this is 4 total miles
Footing and Compensation
Always watch the terrain. A fit horse is likely to balance himself and will deal with footing
difficulties…but don’t think that he can always take care of himself. In the wild, he has no rider;
much less one who leans forward, backward and crazily off either side. Your horse has to
compensate for your weight and what you are doing on his back. He always compensates to
carry you, in good footing or bad. If you stay balanced, he will be more comfortable, more
efficient, play better and will have less risk of injury.
If you don’t already, start the habit of looking forward at the ground over your horses head and be
ready to balance him up to help him negotiate rough spots. Use your contact and weight to ask
him to carry himself slightly more on his hind end so the front end is more maneuverable and can
deal with the uneven ground. You will feel an educated horse reach for the ground and this is one
way you can help protect him. Look where you are going (your head is the heaviest part of your
body), even in turns, as this gives your horse an extra weight aid. Be sure the rest of you is
balanced.
Hills
Keep in mind all workouts have to be adapted to terrain. Not everyone has clean, flat fields to
work on. If you can maintain most of the speed you are working and most of the continuity, the
times you have to slow up for terrain difficulties really won’t hinder the end result too much.
Hilly areas can help with fitness, and you can actually incorporate some of the speed work
(controlled of course) going up them. It will be easier for an unfit horse to travel a hill on a
diagonal line going up the hill. Incidentally, many horses who are unfit really want to canter up a
hill. This is because it is easier on their muscles to do so. It might be wise to allow some strides at
a mannerly pace so you don’t cause him stress. Go back to your working pace as soon as you
can. You’ll find that as your horse gets fitter, he won’t want to canter the hill you want to trot.
Be careful of any downhills; arthritic horses will have a harder time with them. You can travel
downwards on a diagonal line across the hill; it is less stress on the back end of your horse.
Cantering and trotting downhill is not recommended because of the stress to the horse’s legs,
back and hindquarters.
Add the Canter
When your horse feels efficient with the previous workouts he is ready to move up. The next
building block is to add repetitions of trot/canter intervals before trying to canter in one long
steady distance. Eventually, the trot becomes the ‘rest’ phase while the canter is the ‘work’
phase. Start with the first column, when you feel your horse doing pretty well with Canter A, add
work like Canter B:
Canter A Canter B
Walk ½ mile Walk ½ mile
Trot ½ mile Trot ½ mile
Canter ½ mile Canter 1 mile
Trot 1 mile Trot 1 mile
Canter ½ mile Canter 1 mile
Trot ½ mile Trot ½ mile
Walk ½ mile Walk ½ mile
5 miles total 6 miles total
This type of a work out can loosely be called interval work. It is alternating gaits at different paces,
increasing the speeds of the gaits with LSD as the horse is ready. It stresses the horse’s systems
and begins to push the heart rate.
Other Work
At this stage you should also be doing suppling work on other days; you won’t just be going on
straight lines in matches. Your horse needs to build muscles first to do the skills you ask from him
later. Do the easy figures first; later your horse will be ready for more advanced things. Circles
(large at first), large figure 8’s (posting is not just for English riders), sitting trots (slow, short
distances at a time, then release and walk; repeat but don’t overdo) and halts (only a few easy
ones) are ways to begin lateral work, work on the bit, flexion and building the muscles of the
topline. These help in building those all important hindquarters and the self carriage for balanced
halts and turns LATER. Not now, because you need to give his muscles a chance to develop and
get ready for the more advanced moves. Don’t make him sore and not want to work for you.
Gradually Increase the Miles
You will feel your horse get stronger as he works, allow him the time to get stronger at each type
of workout before moving up. As you move up you can do workouts from one column to the next:
Miles A Miles B
Walk ½ mile Walk ½ mile
Trot 1 mile Trot 1 mile
Canter 2 miles Canter 5 miles
Trot 1 mile Trot 1 mile
Walk 1 mile Walk ½ mile
You may think that ‘Miles A’ doesn’t look like much work; but your horse will feel the difference at
cantering a distance at one clip. This is still Long Slow Distance work; the more fit the horse gets,
the more he’ll finish the work in less time, breathing more comfortably. Then you move up the
work. Cantering 5 miles should take somewhere around 20 minutes. The level of work in Miles B
(with added fast work) should be good for lower level play; but remember that all horses are
different and you’ll need to tailor a program to his needs.
Other Work
Most horses working at this level can play practice games with good tolerance. It’s also time to do
schooling work on refreshing the stop, turning on the hindquarters, rebalancing, more lateral work
etc. Perfecting the moves at a slower pace before you work at a faster one is a basic rule. If your
horse cannot do a rollback or pivot from a walk or a balanced trot, he won’t be able to do it well at
a canter or gallop. He will be frustrated with you and unbalanced in the movement (watch for
scrambling). You both have to be ready and physically able to do the moves and get the timing
right; it’s not just up to him.
Ponying
You’ve seen riders ‘ponying’ another horse alongside the horse being ridden. Both horses need
to be cooperative—no pulling, biting or kicking allowed. It can help save time, but it cannot
replace the exercise a horse gets when he is ridden. Alternating which horse is ridden helps. Polo
players are known to pony 2 or 3 horses together to work several horses in less time. Many
horses will canter alongside, but the natural inclination of the horse is to trot.
Temperature, Pulse and Respiration
Temperature, pulse and respiration (TPR) can be monitored to watch your horse’s progress. The
horse should have a recovery (return to normal) time of 5 to 10 minutes after a work session. The
normal resting horse has 8 to 20 breaths per minute (bpm), and 40 breaths per minute is OK after
a work session. A resting pulse rate can range from 26 to 40 beats per minute in a fit horse and
120 to 150 bpm is the norm for working.
The fit horse can tackle about 2 hours of work and recover fairly quickly to a pulse rate of 60 to
70. Pulse rates above 160 during work mean that the horse is starting to use muscle fuels,
allowing lactic acid to form. In Getting Horses Fit, author Sarah Pilliner states that an average fit
horse may take 15 minutes for pulse and respiration to return to comfortable limits and should
return to normal within 1 hour.
Advancing Fitness—Anaerobic Conditioning
Advancing your horse’s fitness calls for anaerobic conditioning (non-oxygen burning energy:
muscle fuels used) to increase strength and stamina. At this point, the harder work begins: more
schooling to work muscle fitness (in polo it is called ‘shortwork’), longer distances at the canter
and the addition of speed work. Interval Work is when you ask for varying speeds alternating in
the work out. Quantity Work involves repeated raising of the heart rate (canter or hand gallop
when ready) with fairly complete recoveries by walking; it is longer distances and slower times
than quality work. Quality Work (QL) is more speed in shorter distances in faster times. QL
intervals are controlled speed distances with partial recoveries (trotting) after each. QL sprints are
short bursts at close to all out speed with complete recoveries (walking) after each.
Add speed work at a hand gallop first, in a couple sets between canters. Keep the emphasis on
manners. In time, add 4 to 5 short sprinting distances, not an all out run. A horse who knows the
moves, will not need a lot of schooling work, but will benefit from scrimmages. A work program
such as this (mixed with schooling or practice games) gets your horse ready for upper level play:
Advanced Fitness
Walk ½ …………………… translates to about 5 minutes
Trot 1 mile……………… translates to about 5 to 10 minutes
Canter 7 or 8 miles……….. translates to about 25-30 minutes; vary speed if fit
Trot 1 mile……………….. translates to about 5 to 10 minutes
Walk ½ mile………………. translates to about 5 minutes
If your horse gets tired after 5 to 10 minutes into the work part of the work out (the
cantering here), the work level is too high. You will need to back off until he’s ready to
progress with distance and some speed work.
Total work goal for an upper level polocrosse horse is about 10 or 11 miles as the workout above
including the warm up and warm down. A fit horse should be able to do this in an hour or so.
Once your horse is fit, you do not need to increase the time for shortwork (if your horse needs it).
Instead, fit it into your workout.
Spending between 1 and 2 hours a workout will get your horse very fit. If you are playing at the
lower levels, riding every other day and doing less miles can work. Higher levels of play will
require more fitness like the levels mentioned above; but you don’t have to ride every single day
of the week. It is possible to get a horse too fit for the work he’s doing; too fit for his metabolic
good. No need to go overboard. This program takes 2 to 3 months to get an unfit, healthy horse
ready for play.
Day Before a Game or Hauling:
Consider a day off, or for very light work that refreshes lung power. If you choose to work, a
proper warm up and a few bursts of speed will be all it takes before you warm down and leave
him to save energy for the next day.
Afterthoughts
Once your horse becomes fit for your level of play, you can interchange many different things to
keep him conditioned, maintain his skills of shortwork and keep you both from getting bored. Vary
the type of work you do: LSD, Interval, Quantity and Quality Work as mentioned above. Other
ideas:
1) after warming up, some days can be devoted just to shortwork (these skills are like weight
lifting for your horse), it’s important to end with something he likes to do
2) scrimmage with friends
3) practice drills on your own, make up skill builders yourself
4) change the scenery with a trail ride (a mental break for your horse)
5) do warm up/shortwork and sprints (good before game day)
6) take the day off
After a tournament, allow your horse 1 or 2 days off just to be a horse and replenish his muscles.
The first day back at work, start with an easier workout before getting back to your routine. Once
your horse is fit, it will not take as much work to keep him there and practice weekends count as
work outs.
Equally important as conditioning are topics like correct saddle fit (a MUST, just because a saddle
does not hit the withers does not mean the saddle fits), basic nutrition, supplements and
refurnishing of electrolytes. Your veterinarian and experienced horsemen can give you guidelines
to follow. Much information has changed on these topics over the last several years and horses
can have the benefit of the research. If you choose any needed supplements, go carefully, as
some can be toxic if over-dosed. If you want a good performance and a comfortable horse, follow
advice from professionals who know your horse because not all cases are the same.
In polocrosse, we use protective gear and have safety rules, but these cannot prevent injuries
brought on by overstressing an animal. Doing a progressive fitness program will greatly reduce
the chance of injury and will enable you to enjoy many years of play with a responsive partner.
Short cuts may work for a while; but as your horse ages, his body will be less and less forgiving.
The better he is trained and conditioned, the better you both will play.

CONDITIONING THE POLOCROSSE HORSE

admin — Tue, 22 Apr 2008 14:36:12 +0000

By Susan H. Johnson, DVM
The goal of fitness with any athlete is to prepare the athlete for competition in such a manner that
the athlete will perform well and without injury. In polocrosse, the equine athlete will reach our
fitness goal if he is able to perform well and last through a hard weekend of competition, without
injury. Injuries are the most common consequence to lack of fitness in humans, but with an unfit
horse, the most notable consequence is lack of performance. Unfit horses do get injured as well,
but since muscle soreness and soft tissue pain are often difficult to detect by horse owners,
fatigue is the most obvious sign of lack of fitness. When injuries do occur, the horse usually
suffers soft tissue damage to the ligaments and tendons of the long, fragile legs, resulting in
lameness and eliminating the horse from the competition. A horse that is truly fit for intense
competition (Test Match) stands the best chance of staying healthy, sound and strong throughout
the event.
Fatigue
A fatigued polocrosse horse can create a very dangerous situation on the polocrosse field. The
tired horse is more likely to fall, trip, stumble or run into other horses/players. Sometimes the only
sign of fatigue in the horse is the increasing difficulty in stopping him. A severely tired horse will
demonstrate less subtle signs of fatigue (head dropping, intense respiration rate, trembling).
The very large muscle mass of the horse and its unique physiology make the horse an ideal
athlete for endurance sports. However, when these large muscle groups are required to expend
energy beyond the ability of aerobic metabolism, they derive energy from their storage of
glycogen; when glycogen is used, lactic acid is produced in excessive amounts (anaerobic
metabolism) and this produces muscle fatigue and lack of performance. The performance will be
affected the following day as well, with the presence of sore, stiff muscles and the inability to
perform at peak levels. A fit horse will be able to stay in aerobic metabolism during exercise,
prolonging the lactic acid buildup from anaerobic metabolism; his lungs and heart will exchange
oxygen more efficiently and allow for longer, stronger intervals of performance.
The unfit horse will fatigue faster and end up sore before the weekend is finished, because it
simply cannot efficiently provide energy for the large, unfit muscles.
Injury
Soft tissue injury to tendons and ligaments in the lower limbs is a common result of overstressing
the unfit horse. Bone injury can also occur (bucked shins, splints, fractures), but as the horse
gains fitness, the chance of bone injury lessens considerably. Soft tissue strength and integrity
will be achieved with careful, consistent exercise.
Fitness
There are several means by which to measure fitness. The most reliable ones are respiration
rate and heart rate taken at rest, after warm down and then again after recovery. The recovery
period is the time it takes for the horse’s respiration and heart rates to return to resting values. A
fit horse will demonstrate a much faster recovery period than an unfit horse. Another element to
monitor would be the amount of sweating produced after exercise. However, since environmental
conditions will vary with season and location (humidity and temperature), it will require a certain
amount of common sense to determine whether the amount of sweat produced is being
influenced by these factors. For instance, a young thoroughbred living in Colorado might be
sweating very little after a decent workout in July, while an older quarter horse living in Houston
might be drenched after a 15 minute trot session on a hot July morning. The most obvious
factors that will influence your horse’s fitness program are the following:
Heat/Humidity
Cold
Season (coat length)
Terrain (hills versus flat)
Age
Breed
Body Condition Score (lean versus fat)
Since these factors can vary so greatly from horse to horse, it would
make sense to place the most emphasis on heart rate and respiration
rate and especially the recovery time and then take into consideration
the amount of sweating.
Monitoring Fitness
When you start the fitness program, it is important to know the resting
respiration and heart rates of the horse. You will compare the resting
rates with the rates you get after the warm down period and then you
will determine the length of time it takes for the horse to return to
the resting rates; this is called the recovery time. The average
resting respiration rate is 8-16 breaths per minute (rpm) and the
average resting heart rate is 36-50 beats per minute (bpm). The
respirations or breaths can be counted by watching the nostrils and
counting how many times the nostrils flare in a 15-second time period.
Multiply this number by 4 and that will tell you the respirations per
minute. The heart rate can be counted by feeling the pulse of the
facial artery under the rim of the horse’s lower jaw, using two
fingers. Again, count the pulse for 15 seconds and multiply that
number by 4 to get the beats per minute.
Heat and Humidity
Since humidity and heat can have such an effect on respiration and
sweating, it is recommended that the horse be worked in the least humid
time of day, which might be early morning in some regions. If a
workout must take place in the humid evening hours, the horse should be
rinsed with water and scraped with a sweat scraper PRIOR to the
workout. After the workout, the horse should be rinsed and scraped as
many times as needed until the skin is cool. You might also rinse with
a dilute alcohol rinse (one cup rubbing alcohol to ? bucket of water),
if necessary. The alcohol helps to evaporate the moisture faster in
really humid environments. Placing the horse in front of a fan until
the coat dries is also recommended.
Some drinking-water sources are prone to getting hot in the summer, so
having a cool bucket ready for after the workout is an important
consideration.
Cold
In colder regions, horses can be worked successfully at anytime during
the day that does not unnecessarily expose them to moisture or wind.
It is recommended that the horse be cooled down briefly (less than 5
minutes) before being covered with a wool or synthetic “cooler”. This
helps prevent chilling, which can lead to inadequate water consumption
and possible colic. Once the coat is dry, the cooler is removed and
the coat is brushed or fluffed to help retain heat. A common problem
for horses being worked in colder environments is an inadequate water
intake. It is important to allow access to fresh, thawed water sources
at all times. Some people “salt the feed” to increase thirst.
Season
The coat length of the horse will vary with management, but if the
horse has been clipped of his thick winter coat, he will gain fitness
faster and more efficiently. It is important to keep these horses
blanketed in the late winter/early spring to keep the coat short and
then keep in mind that the horse may need to wear a cooler after
workouts to prevent chilling. If the horse has a significant winter
coat, it is important to rinse or brush out the sweat in the coat so
that it is fluffed and able retain heat when the horse is turned back
out. As the weather warms, it is very important that the coat be
thinned regularly with a shedding blade to lift and remove the shedding
winter coat. The sooner the horse sheds the winter coat, the faster
the fitness will be achieved.
Terrain
Ideally, the polocrosse horse would be cross-trained, with a variety of
hills and flat fields. Running up an incline can build hind end
musculature but controlled work on the flat produces significant
fitness results, as far as endurance is concerned.
Age
The age of the horse does not necessarily change the fitness program,
as long as the horse is sound, healthy and careful monitoring of
fitness is conducted.
Breed
The variability within breeds of horses prevents us from tailoring
fitness programs to certain breeds, but the breed shouldn’t necessarily
change the fitness program, as long as careful monitoring of fitness is
conducted.
Body Condition Score (lean vs fat)
Very few overweight horses can compete with the lean horse, assuming
fitness is equal, so it is critical that the polocrosse athlete be
spared the misery of competing while carrying excess fat. However,
again, the BCS of the horse does not change the fitness program as long
as the same careful monitoring of fitness is conducted.
THE BOTTOM LINE
Common sense plays a very important role in the horse’s fitness
program. It may take one horse 4 weeks of trotting and weekend
practice to become tournament-fit, while another older, heavy quarter
horse in Texas may take 8 weeks of daily workouts to get ready for
competitive play. The best and only reliable way to measure the
horse’s fitness progress is to very closely monitor the horse’s
recovery time after each workout.
THE FITNESS SCHEDULE
The 8-week fitness schedule is a guide for bringing a horse up to peak
fitness. The schedule is geared toward the first of the polocrosse
season. Some horses may take small breaks in the season and only
require 3-4 weeks or less to regain fitness for the next event.
As the recovery rates are monitored, each workout would be tailored to
reach the fitness goal. For instance, if the horse seemed to fatique
after 10 minutes of cantering, he should be slowed to a trot for the
remainder of the workout. Alternatively, if the recovery time was
fairly short (5 minutes), the next workout could be lengthened or
increased in intensity. You might consider lengthening each workout by
3-5 minutes if your horse is recovering well (10-15 minutes) and
demonstrating heart rates and respiration rates in the range of 100/40,
respectively, during the warm down period.
Warm Up/Warm Down
It is imperative that the horse be warmed up prior to each workout and
then be warmed down for 10 minutes. The warm up period may only last
five minutes and involve lunging or trotting, with or without flexing.
The warm down period should involve light exercise (easy trot/fast
walk) for a minimum of 5-10 minutes to allow time for the blood to
remove lactic acid and prevent soreness.
Weeks 1 and 2
In the first two weeks, the horse is started conservatively, with 15-20
minutes of trotting/cantering four times a week. The workout is at
slower speeds for longer distances. This type of exercise
(trotting/cantering) should keep the horse in aerobic metabolism and
keep his heart rate below 150 bpm. This is a critical time to determine
the horse’s existing fitness level by measuring his heart rate and
respiration rate both before exercise and after the warm down period.
As he becomes more fit, the recovery period will become shorter. This
initial two week period is also the time to be grooming with the
shedding blade or clipping the horse of his winter coat. If it is in
the summer, this is the week to be sure to have cooling measures ready
for adequate recovery and cool down.
Weeks 3 and 4
In the following two weeks, the schedule allows for longer intervals of
aerobic training and assumes that some polocrosse activity (practice,
stick/ball work) will take place at least once a week. If no practice
is scheduled, it would be best to work the horse for 30-60 minutes once
a week, in a polocrosse fashion (ball and stick work), allowing for
adequate breaks in the workout.
Week 5
In week five, the schedule shifts to prepare for more competitive
activity on the weekends (2-day practice or tournament). This is the
time to add faster, sprint workouts during the week, with small periods
of rest (trotting) between each sprint. The goal is to prepare the
large muscle groups of the horse for not just long distance/endurance
work but also for shorter, more intense work, as the game would
require. The horse may not be truly fit for this fifth weekend, so
check the calendar and be sure to plan ahead for a lower key weekend of
polocrosse.
Weeks 6, 7 and 8
In weeks six, seven and eight the horse is gaining fitness rapidly and
by the eighth weekend, should be at peak fitness. Peak fitness is
where all horses must be for test match competition. It is very
important to acknowledge the “Rest” days on the schedule. The damage
done to soft tissue after a weekend of polocrosse needs time to repair.
The Fridays before the last few weekends are very important days in
the schedule where the horse must be trotted/cantered for at least 15
minutes in preparation for a hard weekend of polocrosse. Longer, more
strenuous workouts are not recommended on the day before a tournament.
IN CONCLUSION
Fitness programs for any athlete should not be limited to exercise
alone, without consideration for other very important factors in
health. Nutrition, electrolytes, deworming, dental health, sound feet,
proper fitting of tack and the training level are all factors that need
to play a role in the horse’s fitness program. Aerobic conditioning
and sprint-work are imperative to building the strength and stamina for
polocrosse and we owe it to our horses to have them fit for this sport.

Frequently Asked Questions about Polocrosse

admin — Sat, 19 Apr 2008 01:09:28 +0000

Do I have to be able to ride like a Cossack?

Nah. It doesn’t hurt, but it’s not at all necessary. There are many people that learned to ride and play Polocrosse at the same time. The game is played at all levels, called grades. At any event there are at least three grades, A, B, and C, with a junior grade as well. Often there is a D grade as well for people who have never before participated in a tournament.

Do I have to have some hot-hoofed wonder horse to play?

Absolutely not. Any horse will do. Horses pick up the game quickly and seem to enjoy it as much, if not more, than their riders. Any size, age, or breed. There is usually a melting pot of Quarter Horses, Thoroughbreds, Paints, Paso’s, Walkers, Heinz 57, and even an occasional mule.

Do I need any sort of special tack?

To try out the sport, just bring whatever saddle and helmet you have. It is also strongly recommend that you use leg wraps, bell boots and a breast collar. If you continue to play they become a requirement, as well as bits with no shanks - like snaffles and Kimberwickes - and saddles without horns. Most club members ride in Australian stock saddles and a few English saddles, but no one expects you to saw the horn off your favorite Western saddle to try out the sport! Whatever you have will do nicely.

Since safety gear is either required or recommended, this implies that it will be needed, is there something that you’re not telling me?

No secrets here. When you get lots of horses and people together, there are all sorts of interesting things that can happen. It is better to be safe than sorry. All of the rules of the game are about safety. Since Polocrosse is an umpired game, there is always at least one or more often two, umpires on the field, and are in complete control of the game play. The primary reason that they are on the field is to ensure the safety of both horse and rider. The umpires’ word is the law in these matters.

I’ve never been very athletic and my coordination is somewhat less than that of an Olympic gymnast, how could I hope to play any sort of team sport?

You’re among good company. Most of us cannot walk and chew gum at the same time anyway. However, if you want to play at the highest levels athleticism & coordination will be a prerequisite. For the rest of us, although we are always trying to improve, fun is our #1 objective.

Will playing Polocrosse transform my horse into some sort of snorting monster?

Just the opposite. Horses that play Polocrosse rapidly develop a great deal of poise. Not only do they become absolutely bullet proof in short order, they also develop some moves you never knew they had. When you’re playing Polocrosse you forget all about riding your horse, and you and your horse start moving as one. That’s why Polocrosse is such a great way to learn how to ride. You are so focused on playing the game, horsemanship just naturally follows.

Is playing an entire match on just one horse hard on my horse?

No harder than any other activity other than hanging around the barn. Of course the higher the level in which you participate, the more fit your horse has to be. By the rules, no horse is permitted to play more than 54 minutes in any day and in most competitions, the horses only play 32 minutes a day.

Do I have to have acres of grassy fields, white pants, and spit-shined tack to play?

Certainly not. Unfortunately, all of the pictures and video that anyone ever gets to see show park like expanses of grassy fields, riders all in white pants and matching polo shirts, the horses immaculately groomed with matching saddle pads, wraps, and bell boots, leather glistening, etc. At tournaments this is pretty much the case but there’s a whole lot more Polocrosse being played in jeans and T-shirts by people with bizarre assortments of mix and match tack on dirt fields and arenas unlike the idyllic scenes that always seem to be in those pictures.

While the standard field is supposed to be 60 yards by 160 yards with grass as the surface of choice, there are variations of the game that can be played in any reasonably sized area, indoors or out. Polocrosse is more of an activity than just a game played at tournaments. From just messing around by yourself with a stick and ball, playing a little impromptu one on one, or perhaps two on two with some friends to full scale tournament play, it’s all Polocrosse, and it’s all fun.

Polocrosse in Canada 2006

admin — Sun, 16 Mar 2008 04:14:42 +0000

The sport of Polocrosse in Alberta is about 10 years old. We have 2 active clubs in the area with a number of junior members (under 16). Last year we hosted a tournament during Stampede week that saw players from South Africa, New Zealand, Australia, England, and the USA participating. In September we traveled to Wyoming to participate in the US Nationals tournament with 10 members. This year we are again planning a Stampede tournament and inviting an Australian team to participate and plan to travel to the US Nationals in Washington. We would like to field a Canadian team to compete in the 2007 World Cup in Australia.

We have a number of documents and videos that outline the rules, and skills as well as footage of high level games. We can travel to your meetings to put on a demonstration of the sport. We would also like to get members throwing the ball on the ground, outline some of the safety issues and then get them mounted and handling the ball and finally playing a slow game. This would give everyone a feel for the game and let them decide if they want to continue. From there we can help with the formation of a new club or joining an existing one.

THE GAME

The Sport of Polocrosse was derived from an equestrian training exercise in England in 1939 but is now played in many countries throughout the world. As the name implies Polocrosse is a combination of polo and lacrosse. Each player is equipped with a cane racquet made up of a polo mallet shaft to which is attached a racquet head with a loose twisted thread net in which the ball is carried, picked up and thrown. The ball is made from thick-skinned sponge rubber 4 inches in diameter. Each player is permitted only one horse in a match or tournament; it is touted as the King of the One Horse Sports.

Once the basics of Polocrosse are learned, play can become fast paced, testing riding and racquet skills of players and the training and conditioning levels of horses. It is a game that through its competitive nature encourages players to constantly work to improving both themselves & their horses. (A competitive game is a great way to get kids excited about riding.) Required equipment is minimal and the cost to play has traditionally been less than $200 per year.

The following is a brief outline of how the game is played. (There are many rules that ensure fair play and safety, too many to cover here!):
A team consists of six players divided into two sections of three each that play alternating time periods or chukkas of 8 minutes. A game is comprised of 8 chukkas. The three players in a section consist of a No. 1(Attack), No. 2(Center) and a No. 3(Defense). The total number of goals scored by the two sections determines the winning score.
The field is 160 yards long by 60 yards wide (approximately 1/3 the size of a Polo field) with goal posts at each end. There is a 30 yard zone on each end of the field which encloses what is termed as the goal scoring area in which only the No. 1 of the attacking team and the No. 3 of the defending team can enter. The No. 1 is the only player who can score a goal for the team and he can only do so while in the area. Directly in front of the goal there is a semi-circle of 11 yards in radius, and the ball must be thrown at the goal from behind this line. The No. 2 usually the pivot player can only play in the center of the field while the No. 3 is the only player that can defend a goal for his team.

The game commences in center field, the players lining up side by side. The ball is thrown in by the mounted umpire, between the player’s heads. Hitting an opponent’s stick is permitted, either to dislodge the ball or prevent him from gaining possession of it, as long as it is done in an upward motion. Riding off is allowed, but crossing, stopping over the ball, or elbowing constitutes a foul. The wedging of one player between two opponents also constitutes a foul; the penalty for such fouls is a free throw to the opposing player.

Please contact me at 403-931-3610 or ahicks@hotpop.com to arrange for more information.

Calgary Polocrosse

admin — Sun, 16 Mar 2008 04:13:17 +0000

Polocrosse, it’s been called the King of One Horse Sports, but not because it’s a sport reserved for Kings. For annual club dues of $125.00 commoners can play the game Alberta style in Calgary May through September. If you have ever wondered what its all about this story is for you.

Like many ball games the premise is simple, throw, kick or hit a ball through your opponents goal more often than they put the ball through yours. Like many horse games, the object is to stop, turn, backup, outmaneuver and outrun the other riders on the field. Polocrosse combines all the above elements to make a fast paced exciting team sport.

The game certainly is competitive but anyone who loves horses and some good natured fun with other horse people will enjoy the game just as much as the high goal scorers. The sport was developed in Australia in the 1930’s. It started with playful exercises which were part of a training program for young or beginning riders. It was a fun way to develop horsemanship and training techniques while preparing young people for traditional events such as dressage, hunting, show jumping or polo. You can see it on the Polocrosse field all the time, looks of concentration change to big grins as soon as someone throws in a bouncing ball. People can go from being a little bit nervous to hooting and laughing as they chase after a little ball.

It wasn’t long before the game took off as a separate sport and is now played by thousands of people all over Australia. Several local clubs fielding 2 or 3 teams each gather for weekend tournaments called carnivals. Whole families camp out at the sports grounds and games include every level of play and every combination of players from mixed family games to high goal men’s or women’s. Games start early and continue into the afternoon with pot luck barbecue and campfire socializing rounding out the days.

The game can be played with almost any breed of light horse. For beginners the best idea is to bring a horse that you are comfortable with. With a little practice he’ll be turning and following the play with the rest of them. If you’re unsure about how to get started there are lots of club members who are happy to help out. The season begins with several practice sessions. Horses need to be conditioned after a winter lay off and these times are used to renew old skills with drills and exercises and getting new players started. If you are a pretty solid rider and your horse is already pretty handy you will pick up the game a little quicker. If you’re a newer rider it might take a little longer. The main thing is it doesn’t matter who you are, we all get better the more we play. Everybody has the same goals, to increase their own skills and make better horses, and above all have some fun doing it.

Certain tack is used for safety reasons. Saddle horns can get in the way or worse when you bend over to pick up the ball. It’s OK to try out the game in a western saddle but you will probably want to move to something without a horn once you get going. In the game we get in pretty close to each other and long shanks on a bit can get caught in another horses headstall or even just hooked over their reins. To avoid wrecks only bits without shanks are used. English or short spurs without sharp rowels work best to avoid over cueing or even hurting your horse. Heeled boots for safety either English or Western are always worn on the field. Remember that Polocrosse tack is chosen for practicality over style, the rule being if it works good and is safe, use it. Players can be found playing Polocrosse one day and cattle penning or eventing the next. The resulting look is somewhat eclectic. You can borrow a racket and ball until you get started or purchase a set from the club for around a hundred dollars. Optional items are Polo wraps or sports boots and it’s best to have your horse shod for better grip on the grass playing field.

The club playing field is located in South Glenmore Park on 90th Avenue S. W. That’s right at the end of 90th Avenue beside the Parks Board buildings. Parking is on the paved lot so bring a shovel and broom to clean up before you leave. Glenmore Equestrian Park can be accessed from this parking lot and many players enjoy a trail ride before or after a game.

The field is divided into 3 parts, center field and a 30 yard end zone at either end. A game is played with 3 players on each team. Each player carries a racket which is made with a bamboo cane handle about 36 inches long. A net is suspended from a 6 inch round head at the end of the cane. The racket is used to pick up, carry and pass the sponge rubber ball. Both the ball and the racket are fairly light weight. It takes a little bit of practice to learn how to handle them well but it is not as hard as it looks. Most people learn how to pick up and pass in 1 or 2 sessions.

Only one player ( number 1 or striker ) is allowed to enter the opposing end zone. He is opposed by only one ( number 3 or defense ) player from the other team. The other 2 players from both teams are restricted to center field. The play starts with a line up ( at center line ) facing the referee who throws the ball into play. As play continues each side struggles to gain possession of the ball in center field. As play advances the team who gains control of the ball passes it to their number one who enters the opposing end zone and tries to throw the ball through the goal. If the opposing defensive player cannot stop the shot and a goal is scored all players return to the center line for a new throw in. If the defending player gains control of the ball in his own end zone he carries it out to center field and with the help of his number 2 ( play maker ) tries to get the ball to his number 1 who then carries the ball to the opposing end zone tries to score etc. There are a few more rules to the game but the above pretty much covers all you need to know to get started.

When you get into your first game you’ll be playing with 2 experienced players. You’ll likely be playing number 2 and your job will be to support your team mates. If you get the ball and complete a great pass that leads to a goal, great. If you miss the pass that’s OK too. The point is, don’t worry about being the best, it’s a team sport and win or lose you share it with your team mates.

We have yet to see any Kings playing at our club but a few satisfied players after a hard game have been heard to remark that they are having an uncommonly good time.

Ted Doan
Calgary Polocrosse Association

Polocrosse in Calgary Area

admin — Sun, 16 Mar 2008 00:44:13 +0000

As the name implies, it is a combination of polo and lacrosse. It is played outside, on a field, on horseback. Each rider uses a cane stick to which is attached a racket head with a loose, thread net, in which the ball is carried. The ball is made of sponge rubber and is approximately 4? across. The objective is to score goals by throwing the ball between your opponent’s goal posts

What About My Horse? .

Players are allowed only one horse per game, except in the case of injury. There is no restriction on their height, although the ideal should not exceed 15.2 hands. Players do compete successfully on 16 hand horses and horses of many breeds: Arab, Thoroughbred, Paint, Quarter horse, Heinz 57. Just bring your favorite horse!

How Many Are On A Team?

A team consists of 6 players, divided into two sections of three who play alternate chukkas of a maximum of 8 minutes each. Six or eight chukkas compromise a full match. The three players in each section play the position of a No. 1 “attack”, a No. 2 “center”, or a No. 3 “defense”.

How Is the Field Set Up?

The field is 60 yards (55m) x 160 yards (146.5m), with three separate areas. The goal scoring areas, on each end, are 30 yards long. Only the No.1 of the attacking team and the No. 3 of the defending team can play in these areas. The middle area is 100 yards long. The line separating the goal scoring and centre areas is called the penalty line. Goal posts are 8 feet apart. To score, the ball must be thrown from outside an 11-yard semi-circle in front of the goal.

Where Does the Game Start?

It commences in centre field with the players lining up, one team beside the other, with the No. 1’s in front. The umpire throws the ball, over the player’s heads. The game recommences similarly after a goal has been scored. Whenever an attempt at goal fails, the No. 3 throws the ball back into play from behind the penalty line, as directed by the umpire.

How Do You Get the Ball from One End of the Field to the other?

Players can pick up the ball from the ground, or catch it in their racket, and then ride with it, or throw it to other players until the No.1 is in possession of it in the goal scoring area. A player cannot carry the ball over the penalty line, but must bounce it so that they do not have possession of it while actually crossing the line. However, it can be thrown to a player over the line. When carrying the ball, a player must carry it on the stick side, ie., right handed players must carry it on the off-side of the horse. They can, however, pick-up or catch the ball on the non-stick side provided they immediately bring it back to their stick side.

What Strategies Can You Use to Get the Ball Away From a Player?

Hitting at an opponent’s stick, either to dislodge the ball or to prevent them from gaining possession of it, is allowed in an upward direction only. Riding off is allowed, but crossing, stopping over the ball, or elbowing constitutes fouls. Sandwiching of one player between two others also constitutes a foul. Fouls result in a free throw to the offended side.

Who Can Play?

Basically anyone can play. In Calgary, men and women compete together on the same teams. We would like to encourage more junior players to join us. Last year, the United States Pony Clubs adopted Polocrosse into their curriculum, and we would love to see the same here someday.

What Equipment Do You Need?

Requirements for the rider are a helmet and a racquet. If spurs are worn they cannot have sharp rowels. For the horse you must have a breast collar, a bit with no protrusions, joined reins, leg wraps and bell boots, and a saddle without a horn. (The Calgary Club does allow new players with western saddles, to participate in walk-trot games, but are encouraged to use a saddle with no horn.)

How Often Do You Play?

We run two separate tournaments per year, the spring cup runs from May to July Sunday’s at 10:30 am and a fall cup from Sept to Nov Sundays 10:30 am. You’re welcome any time to come have a look or bring a horse along and give it a go.

Is it Expensive to Participate?

Relative to many other horse sports, no. Our membership fee is generally around $150.00 and basically covers insurance costs for the season. A new racquet and ball also cost about $150.00. Many people already have helmets, leg wraps, etc. Occasionally we do get you out to help with field maintenance though!

Polocrosse is a team sport

admin — Sun, 16 Mar 2008 00:40:04 +0000

This is something that should be obvious to everyone but too often it is apparent that the only teamwork involved coordinating the colour of shirts that is worn. What teamwork means to me is that each player on the field is equally important to the success or failure of the group. Too often the work of a player who is no where near the ball will go unnoticed because everyone is watching the action”. When you watch a successful team, pay attention to all the players. You should see the number two or number three riding off someone on the opposing team. Once all of the players are aware of the duties of the other members of the team and how to use them to the best advantage of the team, you will find that the team is more successful.

Pick Ups

Polocrosse is an offensive, possession game. If a player can not pick up a ball then they will not have it to pass to another player or to score a goal. This is the most essential part of the game. The most common flaw that players make in picking up the ball is letting the opponent have a shot at it too. This usually means neither gets the ball and it is up to those following to do something about it. A thinking player will first deal with their opponent and secondly with the ball. It is much easier to get possession of the ball if you ride-off your opponent since nobody will be swinging their stick in your face while you are doing it.

Another common mistake is that new players stay seated in the saddle or get out of the saddle at the last second while trying to pick up the ball. This makes it next to impossible to pick up the ball. What you are doing is changing your body position in relation to the ball, which means that your arm position must adjust in order to put the net over the ball. Now we have a moving object (player) on another moving object (horse) trying to pick up an object that may also be moving (the ball). Pretty hard job for your eye-hand coordination. You should be out of the saddle well before arriving at the ball. This way your view-point (i.e.., your head) is not changing in relation to the ball. You should also have your eyes on the ball during the approach and pick up.

Passing/Catching

The same principle behind a pick up holds true for catching a pass. You should keep your eyes on the ball the entire time, regardless of whatever else is occurring on the field. The person receiving the pass should hold their racket up to make a target for the passer. The ideal spot is slightly ahead of the rider and at eye level. This gives you the largest area to work with in case the pass is not accurate. The receiver should not grab at the ball but move the net towards the ball as it approaches in the air. Once the ball has entered the net, turn the net around and pull it back towards you.

Line Up

Simply put, the line up is where Polocrosse games are won and lost. In the â€œaverage” match, the team that gets the ball in the line up will be the team that scores the goal. The tendency is to ignore the line up while practicing. Read the rule book concerning the line up so you know what to expect. The most common problem in the line up is a horse that anticipates the ball coming in and does not stay still long enough or a horse that does not line up straight or close enough to be of any use to the team. The players should get out of the saddle during a line up so that they may have the maximum amount of mobility should they have a chance at the ball.

Ideally your stick will be lower than your opponent’s so that when the ball is thrown in you may swing upward, knock the opponent’s stick out of the way and be in a position to catch the ball. Remember not to touch the opponent’s stick before the umpire throws the ball. You must be ready to spin around to the outside of the line up or to get a ball that has been deflected into the centre of the line up. If you anticipate either way, you will be at a disadvantage should the ball end up in the opposite location. Watch a video tape of your last match and count who gets the ball out of the line-up. Typically the ball will go to the ones 25% of the time, the twos 25% of the time, the threes 25% of the time and out the back of the line-up 25% of the time (of course these are very rough percentages).

Each player should have several plans in their head during the line up. They should have an idea of where to go if they get the ball, if another member of their team gets the ball and if the opponent gets the ball. Of course it is difficult to keep all of these things in mind when new to the game but that is why you should practice and scrimmage before participating in a competition. The day of the competition is no time to make vast changes or learn new strategies.

Each position has its duties on the field. While some might appear to be more important than others, it will be the team that has well rounded that will have a more consistent performance. It is important for all players to understand the roll of each position so they know how to use their own players and how the opponents may react to situations which may occur on the field.

Number One

The number one has to have good stick skills. Ultimately they are the person who will have the ball whether they picked up themselves or caught a pass. They must be proficient in all stick skills and have quick reflexes. The number one does not have to have the fastest horse on the field since they are the player who controls the speed and flow of their team’s offense. If the number one gets the ball in the line up they have to choice between turning to the outside and taking the long route towards the goal (which gives their team-mates time to take out the opposing number three) or to try and quickly get by the front of the opposing one (it is more likely that they will be stopped or pushed out of bounds but it will keep the other team guessing and works if the number one is fast). As a number one a typical approach towards the goal scoring area would have one of your team-mates marking the three and the other protecting your stick side. If you are alone and have confidence in your horses ability to not be ridden off, use the sideline to protect your stick side. Remember not to rush, many number ones miss the bounce into the box because they are going too fast.

If another member of the team gets the ball it is their job to head towards the number one. It is the responsibility of the number one to rate the speed so that they do not end up too far ahead of the other player. The number one should protect the stick side of the player with the ball. Just before the line the ball carrier should let the number one ahead slightly or move slightly away from the one so there is enough room between them to pass the ball. By passing the ball at the line you have only one chance to lose the ball. If you pass to the number one in mid-field and they have to subsequently bounce it, then there are two chances of having a mistake which could cost you possession of the ball.

Whether it is bounced or passed to the number one, they should immediately head for the goal once they are in the box. This will put the opposing three to work immediately. Hopefully, they have had to work hard enough to get here that you will not have much of a problem. The number three will be making an adjustment from being marked in mid-field by your team, to having to mark you in the box. Make the most of this adjustment. It is perfectly acceptable to wait if you do not have a clear shot. When this happens keep moving, using the entire box including riding through the semi-circle in front of the goal. A right handed player should circle the box counter-clockwise. This way their stick side is on the outside of the circle and protected from the number three. The number three has no choice but to stay on the inside of the circle since if they aren’t there you would have a clear shot. As soon as you get half a horse length ahead of the number three turn towards the goal and shoot. You should practice enough so that you can shoot from any angle and from any place within the box. It will only take a split second to get a shot off so be ready for the opportunity.

Defensive play for a number one is rather simple. If the other team gets the ball the number one should either mark the opposing team’s number one until their own number three can take over or go after the opponent with the ball. It all depends upon whether the other team get the ball in the line up or else where on the field. Whatever action is decided upon, the number one must pay attention to the ball so that they are not caught off guard should their team get possession.

Number Two

The most misunderstood position and the one requiring the most thought. The best person to play number two will be someone who does not have any problem thinking and reacting quickly. Right from the line up on the number two has decisions to make. Since the other positions are either offensive or defensive, a number of decisions are already made for the players. The number two has no such luxury. If their team gets the ball the number two should probably mark the opposing number three even a second or two delay can give the number one time to score.

The number two might also decide to protect the number one or the number three (if they have the ball). If the opponent gets the ball the number two has to decide whether they should go after the person with the ball (most likely) or slow down the opposing number one.

These decisions have to be made instantly and then carried out. The number two’s success is measured by absences. That is the absence of the opposing number three when your number one enters the box, the absence of the opposing number one when their team has the ball or the absence of a pass by an opponent to their number one because they have been held up in mid-field. It is something that is not readily apparent to spectators but the players on the field know when there is a good number two present.

The basic strategy of a number two can be put in two categories. The first type of number two is a little flashier, has good stick skills and has no problem moving around the field at will. This number two will go after the ball where ever it is so that their team-mates are free to do their jobs. They will often break the averages for the line up and be the player who brings up the ball for their team. The other type of number two does the job the old fashioned way: hard work behind the scenes. This type of number two will let their presence be known by riding off key members of the opposing team. Whoever is handy at the moment is fair game. Members of the other team will be calling each other for help when this type of number two is on the field.

Number Three

The number three has a tough job since generally speaking the number one will score once they are in the box with the ball. Once the number three realizes this, the pressure should be off them but instead it usually increases. Anytime the number three can stop or even delay the number one in their attempt to score, they have achieved a small victory in the contest that is occurring. The number three has to be ready to go anywhere the number one goes which means having a horse that is a fast and as quick at turning as any other horse on the field. The number three’s job is to react to whatever the opposing number one does.

The work begins in the line up. It is strange that the key defensive player begins by being on offense, since about half the time, it will be the number three that gets the ball. When the number three gets the ball they have to find their number one, who will probably be behind them and proceed on offense.

When the other team’s number three gets the ball, it is imperative that the number three pull back and find the opposing teams one. This is difficult because one’s tendency is to stay with the ball, but the number three has to have confidence that their team-mates will mark the ball sufficiently. If the number three does not get the ball, their sole function is to stay glued to the side of the opposing number one. If other members of your own team are already on the number one then call them off, they can not follow the number one into the box, you can. This is where reflexes are important. The opposing number one knows where they are headed but the number three does not. They can not let that number one have a second’s peace. If the opposing number one has the ball then the number three had better be at their side. If you can not get on the stick side then ride off the number one.

Remember the number one is most vulnerable when they are crossing the penalty whether they bounce the ball or receive a pass. A good aggressive bump on the line will often be enough to cause a loose ball. If the number one is in the box and awaiting a pass, you should be between them and the penalty line. Watch the number one’s eyes for an indication that the ball has been thrown. Your team-mates should also let you know when the ball is in the air. At this point give wood, the number one will not be able to catch the ball, it will land on the ground and you have a fifty-fifty shot at it. Those odds are as good as a sure thing for a number three. If the number one has possession of the ball in the box you should be between them and the goal and pushing them away from the goal at all times. It may not force them out but the farther the distance, the more difficult any shots will be. Keep in mind that a number one will want to keep moving and try to stop them. This will mean that they have to first get moving and second try to position themselves for a shot on goal. Two things are more difficult to do and take longer than one. The longer you delay the number one, the more impatient they will get and the more likely they are to make a mistake. The most important thing that the number three can accomplish is to cause to number one to concentrate on getting free rather than concentrate on the goal. This will prevent the number one from capitalizing on any opportunities that they get.

The number three must be proficient at the overhand and underhand bounce. The underhand bounce will probably be used more often since the number three primarily gets the ball after a missed shot at goal. If there are players in your way when coming out of the box, do not be afraid to go right through them since they are in your line, it will be they who draw the penalty.

Summary

It is my hope that the readers of this guide get a feeling for the possibilities for strategy in a Polocrosse match rather than a memorization of absolutes. If you are thinking about what to try the next time you are playing then I have achieved my goal. The only idea contained here that should be set in concrete is that Polocrosse is a team sport and should be played as such. A group of individuals with weaker skills that plays as a unit will have a more consistent performance, and probably get more enjoyment out of playing Polocrosse. Since, this is one of the few group activities for riders it serves as a social vehicle in addition to being a sport. The main thing is to have fun and to play safely.

Polocrosse Equipment

admin — Sun, 16 Mar 2008 00:18:30 +0000

Like any sport polocrosse requires the use of specialized equipment. Most of the items required for polocrosse would be found in a person’s tack whether they played polocrosse or not. Every required piece of equipment is for the safety of the horse or rider.

The horse must have bell boots and either polo wraps or galloping boots on all four legs. This is to protect them during close contact plays. If a player does not wrap his horse correctly and the leg wraps come loose during play then the umpire will call time out, the wraps will be fixed and the other team will get the ball. The horse must have a breastplate on to keep the saddle from sliding back during the match. Any bridle which has long or protruding side bars is prohibited. Since the horse is 80% of the game great care is taken to insure that it’s equipment is safe and in good condition.

The riders must wear a helmet with a secure chin harness and a flexible or snap-off brim. The players on a team will wear matching colors with their number clearly displayed on their back. Normal riding attire is worn.

A polocrosse racket is usually about three to four feet long with a loose twisted thread net in which the ball is carried. The original racquet’s were a squash racket head attached to a polo mallet shaft. The normal shaft is made of cane which gives when picking a ball off the ground and so is less likely to break. Players will spend hours adjusting their nets in order to achieve the perfect balance between a net which is deep enough to keep the ball once it is picked up and yet shallow enough to be able to throw and pass quickly and accurately.

The ball is about four inches in diameter and made of sponge rubber with a thick skin. It is soft and bounces well on most surfaces.